A wave entering shallow water.
Why does a tsunami slow and grow toward shallow water?
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Why does a tsunami slow and grow toward shallow water?
Why does a tsunami slow and grow toward shallow water?
Fit the components before testing.
A long shallow-water wave travels at √(gh). In the ideal gently varying channel used here, Green’s law increases amplitude as depth falls. Travel time is a teaching estimate, not a local warning.
Linear long-wave speed and Green’s-law shoaling in a constant-width gentle channel. No breaking, reflection, inundation or operational tsunami prediction. Vertical scale exaggerated; wave strokes and the gauge share a bounded display scale, while readouts give the model amplitude in metres.
Show a nearshore amplitude above 2 m and offshore travel under 10 minutes.
Compare wave speed and amplitude offshore and nearshore.